McCall 7199 – Asymmetrical Zip Outerwear

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I think my body might be shrinking. Or not. Maybe I’m not understanding what “moderate stretch knits” are, since I didn’t think the fabric I used was crazy stretchy.

This is what the envelope image of McCall 7199 view A looks like:

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This is how it looks on me:

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I cut the size 12 and made no mods other than making the hem slightly longer to account for my generous torso length (I folded up 3/8″ instead of 1″). I actually like the loose fit, but it might have been a good idea to go down one more size. I feel like I’m writing this sentence a lot lately. I’m having a bear of a time figuring out the right sizing for myself with so many different pattern companies and very little standardization. Throw in the quirks of each fabric, and I’m constantly scratching my head.

There’s a lot to love here. The double knit is super luxe and soft. I think it’s a sweater knit? I’m just going to put it out there that from here on out, chances are good that I won’t remember where any of the fabric I’m using is from nor am I adept at identifying types of substrate. I’m sorting through stash from years ago at this point and my memory isn’t great on the best of days. That’s why I have to write about my projects right away; otherwise I won’t even be able to remember that I actually made the thing.

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Anyway. I’m drawn to asymmetrical designs, and that zipper! I never thought I’d be able to make something that looks this difficult. Spoiler: it’s not difficult at all.

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I did make things difficult by installing the left zipper incorrectly at first, forgetting that the front was supposed to overlap. I installed it like I would a normal jacket or hoodie, which made it extremely maternity-friendly —  I must have unwittingly wanted it to look like all my other tops. Luckily, unpicking the seam wasn’t a total nightmare, and it was an easy enough fix.

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There’s quite a bit of piecing involved as well as hand-stitching of the facing (I used the thinnest cotton knit I could find in my stash), so it’s not the fastest project on the block but I’m thoroughly digging the end results. I love all the panels and shaping that happens as a byproduct and the overall effect is sporty yet stylish. And sort of futuristic, no?

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Trying to figure out how to get the collar to lay in a pleasing way is a fun challenge. And I need to shift the snap position inside because it’s hitting at a weird spot in my armpit. A couple of other nit-picky things: I noticed that because this pattern is meant for knits, there are no instructions for finishing the seam allowances. However, I like to serge the raw edges of my knits, so I did that where it made sense. And my pocket linings keep peeking out, so I’ll need to sew them down and next time, I plan on skipping pockets altogether because it adds bulk to the midsection that I can do without.

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Other than a few minor, minor issues, this is a top/sweater/jacket thingie that’s going to get a lot of wear! M was very impressed when he saw me zipping it up and declared it “cool”. Now that’s high praise because he rarely notices my clothes — I could be rocking out in a grain sack (which, sadly, many of my dresses resemble), and he would be unperturbed.

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I’m having a blast sewing for myself and can’t stop! Oh, side note: I was perusing my Pinterest board after I finished making this and noticed that I had pinned an image that obviously propelled me to purchase the pattern without me even realizing it. I’d forgotten all about that pin! The power of the subconscious…

 

P.S. Furoku members, part 1 is going out tonight!!

 

28 thoughts on “McCall 7199 – Asymmetrical Zip Outerwear

  1. I think that this top is wonderful–it is cool and futuristic. I never take any fashion photograph seriously (especially pattern covers)Remember photographing the cover of your book? And remember the movie “Lost in Translation” with Bill Murray. I think he had clips in the back, holding his jacket in place while he was shooting that commercial in the movie.

    1. Thanks Greta! You’re totally right, I need to stop looking at those envelope photos!! I don’t remember the scene from Lost in Translation, and now I want to go watch it again!

  2. OOh! I’m so excited to see a review of this pattern. I ordered it over the summer but was inwardly groaning at the thought of making it because I figured it must have loooads of excess ease, but seeing it on someone else’s body is helpful. It looks slouchy but stylish and comfortable. Interestingly, it’s exactly (including the racerback detail) the same as the “airport greeting cardigan” at Modcloth. I wonder which company originated it and which ripped it off?

    (Also, I feel like a total creep commenting on blogs where I don’t usually comment, because I feel like I should introduce myself? Like, Hi, I’ve been reading your blog for about a year…)

    1. Hi MayravB (May, is it?)! So happy to have you here and thanks for your comment :-). I just peeked at the airport greeting cardigan and wow, doppelganger! Yes to the excess ease and if your fabric has any stretch at all, I would recommend going down at least one size.

  3. I immediately fell in love with this. I think I saw something similar at Lululemon years ago and wanted to buy it but it was too dear for my pocketbook, so to speak. I must see if I can get this pattern locally.

    I am glad to see you are on a roll sewing for yourself! I did a major reorganize this weekend so I am feeling more love for starting to sew again. Have fun. Can’t wait to see your next make!

    1. Oh, I bet Lululemon had something similar and no surprise about the price! The pattern came out within the year, I believe, so I think it should be pretty easy to find! Do they have JoAnn’s in Canada? I don’t even know! Looking forward to seeing what you start sewing, Melissa!

  4. Looks great! I do find that with most of the big pattern companies, I have to make one size smaller than my measurements say I should make. I always wonder why the companies make the patterns that way – why not just size things to fit as the measurements indicate? Or maybe it’s just me?

    1. Thanks Nicole! I usually do down a size too, but in this case, I think I could have gotten away with going down three sizes! The sizing thing is truly confusing to me too…:-|

  5. What a cute pattern! Yours looks really cozy though I think you are right about going down a size (maybe even two, honestly!). I have always found the bit pattern companies to build more ease into a garment than I generally like to wear.

    1. I was just typing that for the comment above ! 🙂 Yes, this pattern in particular seems to run very large. I agree that it’s cute, though and maybe I’ll try another one in a ponte and see how that goes…thanks Masha!

  6. Ok, I have all kinds of thoughts on Big 4 sizing! Firstly, I do not trust their photos in the slightest. Secondly, they usually provide a category of fit in their description – so if it says close-fitting, there’s 0-3″ of ease through the bust. (Here’s their chart: http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/ease-chart-pages-575.php) But that’s a huge range! This pattern is “semi-fitted” and has 5″ though the bust, which seems like a ton for a knit garment. Maybe they need to split out their woven and knit ease charts? Even if it’s different than designed, it does look like a wonderful cozy piece!

    1. Oooh, such good info, Morgan! I can always trust you to have the analysis done! 5″ through the bust is enormous!! What the what? Luckily, I like to wear loose stuff, so this jacket thingamabob will get a lot of use!

    1. Thank you so much, Clare! It’s a fun one to wear, though I do get a little mixed up at first when putting it on. 🙂

    1. Comfy + Stylish = happy me 🙂 I’m having such a good time sewing for myself and it’s really nice to get such lovely comments too. Thanks Em!

  7. Hi Sanae! I love this sweater on you! I am so going to pick up that pattern now. I think you should definitely make it again. I can see a more fitting one dressed up with a cute midi skirt and heels or flats. I don’t think the one you made looks too big though..just comfortable. Well done! I am so bad with taking my time with the hand sewing. I just want to top stitch instead, if you know what i mean. Need to learn to relish in each step.

    1. Thanks Anna! I’d love to make a more fitted one out of a darker ponte knit — I think that would look pretty cool. I used to avoid hand sewing whenever possible too, but now I like listening to an audiobook or podcast and stitching away. There’s something very soothing about hand sewing…

  8. It’s nice to see what this pattern looks like on a real person! I bought this pattern this winter, but when I cut out the pattern pieces and held them up to me they looked gigantic. I haven’t made it yet, but I know now that I will need to seriously shorten it when I do. Thanks Sunae!

    1. You were one step ahead of me, Claire! I just eyeballed my pattern pieces and figured they’ll turn out okay! 🙂 Definitely go down a size…

  9. I hope you receive this as a compliment, but this top looks like it comes straight from the pages of an Athleta catalog! You’ve wowed me again, Sanae – I love how you take commercial patterns and make them look just so cool. Your fabric choice is so perfect as well. I”m sure this will become a heavy hitter in your wardrobe!

    1. Athleta! Now that’s a store I’ve never even dared go into…thank you so much for the kind words, Lucinda! I’m practicing just getting over my fear of using all of my “special” fabrics. This one is particularly great because it’s double knit and has this beautiful variegated texture to it. 🙂

    1. Thanks so much, Katie – the pattern is worth a try, for sure. I was excited to get the zippers to actually line up and it was sewing it for that practice alone! 🙂

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